Filipa & William stuurden ons een brief

door Kris Jeuris, 15 januari 2019

Filipa Pato & William Wouters schreven ons zopas een brief. We delen hem graag met u. Hij geeft niet alleen een helder verslag van de oogst 2018, maar ook een unieke inkijk in het hoofd van deze twee gepassioneerde wijnmakers. Wijnen met een ziel, daar moet je ook bij nadenken:

Dear Kris and Bert,

We will start with the good news. The quality of 2018 is excellent. This for Bairrada is amazing. It means that this was the 4th excellent vintage in a row. The less good news is that it is a small crop.

Lees het vervolg van de brief onder de foto.

Everything started difficult in 2018. The winter was warm (less cold than usual), on top of this, it was very dry. During springtime we had the impression it was never going to stop raining. This went on till the beginning of Summer, first week of July. The temperature until then barely went over 25 degrees. The cycle of ripening was very delayed. In some of the vineyards the flowering was affected. This was the case for the Bical and Maria Gomes vines.
The Baga showed again why it is a real terroir driven grape, it was showing very healthy and almost not affected by the rain during flowering. Just to tell: most of the “Galega” olive trees around the vineyards didn’t have any production at all, this because of the cold and rainy flowering period.

Due to a possible attack of mildiou and oidium, we had to spray with our tisanes almost every week. The positive thing what happened is that we really could do a great follow up of all the different plots. It showed us even more the character and expression of the different microclimates. We always learn. We used a big diversity of plants and herbs from the Bairrada region, all of them with a proven fungic capacity.
A interesting thing happened that same period, we had an amazing amount of oregano, wild asparagus and wild fennel in the vineyards. And this for a long period. Nature is powerful and honest, it balances if you show respect. We really believe it has to do with working in an organic and biodynamic way for quite a while now.
The first week of August the temperature had a blast! In one day we went from 26 degrees to 43 degrees. This extreme heath went on for 4 days. Due to this extreme condition a lot of our centenary vineyards were affected. We lost almost half of the production from these old vines.

From very wet conditions we went to very dry conditions during harvest. So the fruit we harvested was very healthy and well balanced.
As our fermentations are finished now, we can say we are looking at an excellent quality vintage. 2018 will be very distinguished, elegant with a kind of hidden strong and intense character.

We deeply believe Bairrada has probably the greatest terroir expressions of single grape varietals in Portugal. For the last few years we really understand and respect even better the different plots of our propriety. This results in our sales. As the demand is higher than what we can produce, and as we want to maintain the same quality, we looked for a solution.
Over the years our customers/friends grape growers from surrounding villages showed us some amazing plots of Baga, Bical and Cercial. Given the excellent human relationship and the quality of their competent craftsmanship in the vineyards, we decided to develop - what we will call “Dinamica” - a modest négociant range. The idea behind this is to try to dynamise the region and show that if you aim for quality, people will find you, even when you are situated in a beautiful but forgotten corner of Europe, Bairrada.
We will guide our suppliers in their work in the vineyards, no pesticides or fertalizers are allowed. The yields will be controlled, all this to keep our standard of quality. Part of our estate wines will always be the backbone of “Dinamica”.

In the future, our estate range will be fully ceritfied by “Ecocert” and consist of the following wines:

red: Missão Baga Prephylloxera, Nossa Baga Calcario, Post Quercus Baga, Espirito de Baga

white: Nossa Bical Calcario, Post Quercus Bical

The new wines will be Dinamica Bical and Dinamica Baga. They will replace the FP branco and Baga.

For us the key to perfect balance in Bairrada is blending the remarkable different expressions of the Baga or Bical from all the different microclimates. This is the our biggest challenge every season. Many hours of thought, insight, and conversation go into the final component blend for red Baga wines and our white Bical wines.
While percentages vary from year to year, the constant backbone of Red Bairrada for us comes from Silva Vineyard with its steep, limestone slopes. Similarly with the white, the components vary, however the base is made from old vines Bical from our Ois do Bairro vineyards.

Long-lived wines of great purity, elegance, power, and finesse, Filipa’s view on Baga from Bairrada is winemaking in its apogee. In years when we believe the quality of Nossa Baga Calcario will not be compromised, our ultra-rare prestige “Missao” Baga Prephylloxera is bottled, which represents a variation on our Nossa from a very old (+130 years) plot of Prephylloxera Baga vines.

“Dinamica” sources grapes from various villages in Bairrada, it represents a more accessible way for the consumer to experience our wines. “Dinamica Baga” and  in the future “Dinamica Bical” will be very accesible expressions of Bairrada, quality will continue to be eminent even at our entry level.

Our goal is to continue to work with passion and refine our work to the highest level and satisfaction: biodynamic farming, super low yields, full ripeness, and minimal manipulation in the cellar. We believe this will result in unmatched meticulousness to render venerable expressions of the purest of Baga and Bical from the different terroirs of Bairrada.

Thank you for your trust in our work and even more important, for your love and passion for Baga and Bical from Bairrada!

Friendly regards and best wishes for 2019!!!

Filipa & William

Ois do Bairro, 10 of January  2019