We are far from done talking about Porto, but in episode 2 we first head to Lisboa and the Silver Coast, because that is where we actually spent last week. It was time to taste the new vintages with our winemakers in the coastal region.
After landing in Lisboa, we like a good breakfast. The obvious place is Pastelaria Versailles on Avenida da República, on the north side of Lisboa. Here everything has stayed the same 'desde 1922', as proudly displayed beneath the logo. The building breathes tradition, the service is pure class, the coffee is of outstanding quality and the range of freshly made pastries is endless. There's no better way to start the day.
Note that this Versailles should not be confused with the branch you'll find in the airport terminal. It does belong to the same owners, but the bread and pastries there are just a little less fresh. That said, should you ever have to wait at the airport and feel peckish, Versailles' roast chicken is by far the best food option in the whole airport.
Time to leave Lisboa. We head for a coastline of cliffs and narrow beaches that, despite its beauty, remains fairly quiet. The ocean has built in its own protection here: the water is too cold for many to swim in, so mass tourism stays away.
Surfers in their wetsuits, on the other hand, can't get enough of it and come from all over the world. The area is world-famous for excellent waves, with those of Nazaré as the ultimate. But even if you'd rather keep your feet dry, you can have a great time here. Below we've jotted down something for everyone.
Peniche
An hour's drive north of Lisboa lies Peniche. The town itself isn't the most charming, but its surroundings more than make up for it. Peniche is surrounded by the ocean. A picturesque coastal road takes you past cliffs, a beautiful lighthouse and small, quiet beaches. The ocean view never gets boring. Both north and south of the town lie vast beaches. From the sand you get a non-stop show of surfers out at sea.
You eat excellent fish in Peniche. There's Profresco, a fishmonger and restaurant in one. The interior is somewhat uninspired, but the quality of the fish is outstanding. If you want a bit more character, Tasca do Joel is without doubt the place to be. If you don't book, you'll sometimes queue for more than an hour in high season. Portuguese diners, by the way, find it perfectly normal to wait that long for a table.
Tasca do Joel started in the 1980s as a meeting place for local fishermen. Joel offered them the grill to cook their fish on, and in return they bought their wine from him. The grill is still there, but today the restaurant provides the fish itself, so you don't need to bring your own. And wine? There's plenty of that too. You'll find almost every quality wine Portugal has to offer. A meal at Tasca do Joel is worth a detour.
Off Peniche, a few kilometres out to sea, lie the Berlengas islands. They form a nature reserve where many bird species like to nest. For those who want to get away from it all, a day trip to the Berlengas is highly recommended. The crossing can be leisurely or very fast and spectacular. In Peniche harbour you'll find boats to suit your preference.
Bukubaki Eco Surf Resort near Baleal
Surfing Spirit
Drive north from Peniche and you soon reach Baleal. Here, life follows the rhythm of the waves. You'll find cosy beach bars such as Bar do Bruno and friendly, simple eateries like Mundano.
If you like a bit of luxury but still want to feel the surf vibes, you can stay comfortably at the Surfers Lodge. For families with children, we can't recommend Bukubaki Eco Surf Resort highly enough. You can choose between fully equipped treehouses or luxury tents. Bukubaki has its own surf instructors and rents out all the gear. Book a surf lesson and you'll be driven to the beach by jeep.
It will be clear that we have explored this area thoroughly ourselves and have spent more than one holiday here with the children. That's no surprise. Some of our favourite winemakers work in this region. Rodrigo of Humus, Luis of Marinho, Emanuel of Safado have their vineyards nearby, and every one of them is a passionate surfer. We couldn't have wished for better guides.
If you're feeling the surf vibes, a visit to Nazaré and its notorious Praia do Norte is a must. Every December the best (craziest?) surfers in the world come here to take on waves that are sometimes 30 metres high. The waves are so powerful that surfers need a jet ski to catch them. The viewpoint over the raging ocean, at the Nazaré lighthouse, is a true place of pilgrimage, complete with its own entrance arch and an artwork of a surfer with a deer's head, called Veado. For anyone who wants to admire the immeasurable power of nature, this alone is worth a return trip to Portugal.
While Praia do Norte is strictly reserved for the most skilled surfers on the planet, ordinary mortals can use the other beaches in the region all year round. Everywhere you'll find surf schools where you can often just walk in, and before you know it you're lying on a surfboard in the sea with an instructor beside you. Even as a one-off activity, a surf lesson is highly recommended. You experience the power of the ocean first-hand and, with a bit of luck, you'll even manage to stand up on your board once.
And while you're in Nazaré, you might as well take in some culture. In nearby Alcobaça, Cistercian monks built a large monastery in the 12th century. It is no longer in use today but has been perfectly preserved. The monks' influence can still be felt, too. As in other wine regions, Burgundy first and foremost, the Cistercians, with their eye for detail and their innovations, laid the foundations for the modernisation of winemaking. It was partly thanks to winemaking that another Portuguese tradition arose in the monasteries: sweets based on egg yolk, known as 'doces conventuais'.
Egg white was invariably used to fine the wine, and the yolk was a by-product. When the Portuguese suddenly brought back sugar from their colonies, the monks combined egg yolk with sugar and nuts in all sorts of ingenious ways.
You'll still find these sweets in every Portuguese village today. Opposite the monastery of Alcobaça is Pastelaria Alcôa, which rightly calls itself 'Mestres em Doces Conventuais'. Anyone with a sweet tooth will be in heaven here.
Is the coastal trip coming to an end, but you don't feel like arriving at the airport far too early? Then Ericeira is a perfect final stop. This charming coastal village is a pleasant mix of fishermen and surfers. At Mar das Latas you can enjoy the best view, and the wine selection is spot on. You'll find bottles from most of Portugal's natural winemakers.
The short distance to Lisboa airport (35 minutes' drive, and never heavy traffic on this side of the city) makes it ideal to enjoy Ericeira until the very last moment.
Atlántico in your glass
If there's anywhere you can taste the influence of the ocean in your glass, it's the coastal region north of Lisboa. The cooling effect of the sea, combined with the natural winemaking that is the norm here, results in wines full of tension and energy.
Discover in the wines below why we are such big fans of the region.