Over the past ten years, Lisboa has transformed from a well-kept secret into a cosmopolitan magnet. For now, though, tourists aren't yet being sprayed with water pistols as in Barcelona. So make the most of it now.
On a first visit it's hard to skip Lisboa's now very touristy centre, but here we show you how to weave through it like a true lisboeta. The grandeur of Praça do Comércio leaves no one unmoved. It's a good starting point for an interesting walk. Don't be tempted by the Wines of Portugal Wine Tasting Room just yet; better things are to come. Walk off the square to the right along the water and you'll immediately come across the beautifully restored dry docks of Ribeira das Naus. Continue along the avenue and you reach the very touristy Cais do Sodré. This used to be an exciting neighbourhood with alternative cafés but has lost its authenticity since the arrival of the Time Out Market.
Our favourite jazz café and bistro Tati moved away and can now be found on the north side of the city. It's worth the detour (by taxi). Not only can you taste the best natural wines from Portugal there, the rest of Europe is well represented too, and very affordably.
On our walk we skip Time Out & co and turn right via Rua do Arsenal to the very charming Praça do Município. Via Rua do Comércio you then cross the highly recognisable straight streets of the Baixa Pombalina. The name refers to the Marquês de Pombal, the prime minister who rebuilt the city after the earthquake and tsunami of 1755. The Marquês was also very important for winemaking. During his time in office, the port trade had grown so much that the English shippers had gained too much power and quality was under pressure. The Marquês put a stop to it, quite literally. Among other things, he had the Douro's area of origin marked out with granite posts, creating the first appellation contrôlée before the concept was even invented in France.
Walk to the end of Rua do Comércio and just around the corner on the right you'll find Conserveira de Lisboa. The tins of sardines are of excellent quality and are beautifully wrapped for you as if they were a precious book. From there it's a bit of a climb up Rua da Madalena, but the reward awaits on Praça da Figueira. At Confeitaria Nacional you'll discover the Portuguese art of coffee and pastry in its most traditional form, since 1829.
On the other side of Praça da Figueira is another institution of good taste that is worth a quick visit. Manteigaria Silva has been a quality address for bacalhau, hams and cheese since 1890.
Now you're ready to get lost in the maze of little streets of the Graça district at the foot of the Castelo de São Jorge. Ten years ago you'd rather have stayed away, because the area had a bad reputation, and rightly so. Today the rough edges have worn off and what remains is mostly atmosphere.
Those with the courage to climb can head to the Miradouro da Graça for a sweeping view over the city. Or walk to the bustle of Praça Martim Moniz. Step into the hotel Mundial there and you go back 50 years in time, but take the lift to the top and you suddenly find yourself in a hip rooftop bar.
Feeling hungry? In his Taberna do Calhau , Leopoldo brings the cuisine of the Alentejo to the capital and gives it a creative twist. This is also where you'll drink the tastiest wines from our range. You'll find plenty of older vintages of Casal Figueira on the list.
Leopoldo comes from the village of Vila Alva, where wines are still made traditionally in terracotta amphorae, locally called talhas. In the past these wines weren't bottled but drawn straight from the amphorae. Since 2019, two producers (XXVI Talhas and Geraçoes de Talha) have been bottling them, so we can let you enjoy them too. One to discover!